Friday, March 30, 2012

Crinolines - Put Some Bounce Into Your Circle Skirt

"Should I wear a crinoline under my circle skirt?"  People often wonder about crinolines and if they need one to get the authentic 1950's fashion look.  Crinolines (pronounced \Èkri-nY-lYn\) are an underskirt made from a combination of fabrics like cotton, nylon, organdy and netting that are worn under a circle skirt, poodle skirt or a very full skirt. They usually have an elastic waist although some have a drawstring or snap closure. From the waist they fit closely to the body for a few inches and then generally puff out with one or more net ruffles.  The number and fullness of the ruffles affects how full the skirt will look. A crinoline is also called a Can Can, petticoat, pettiskirt, half slip, and underskirt or ruffle skirt.

The name 'crinoline' combined the Latin words crinis (meaning hair) and linum (meaning flax) because the original garments, introduced in 1830, were made with horsehair and cotton. Crinolines have gone in and out of style depending on the fashionable silhouette of the day. They were revived in 1947 by Dior's "New Look" which featured a full skirt with cinched waist. At first several crinolines were layered to get the fullest look until manufacturers started to produce crinolines with multiple ruffled layers.  It created the big skirt look that we associate with the 1950's.

Dior

Fun fact:  Did you ever wonder why it's called Dior's "New Look"?  Dior's full skirt collection in 1947 created quite a sensation after the pared down fashions and fabric rationing of WW2. "It's quite a revelation dear Christian," pronounced Carmel Snow, the editor of Harper's Bazaar, the US magazine. "Your dresses have such a new look."

Crinolines - Put Some Bounce Into Your Circle Skirt

The 50's style crinoline looks best under a circle skirt or poodle skirt that has a cinched waist to offset the fullness of the skirt. It's most often worn the same length as the skirt although there are some variations. Whether or not to have the crinoline go all the way or stop short of the skirt hem is a matter of taste. Some people like it meeting the hem, some like it peeking out so an inch of net ruffles show and some like it stopping an inch or so short so that the last few inches of the skirt "drop" emphasizing that there's a crinoline underneath. 

What are the features to look for in a crinoline?  Whether you are buying a new or vintage crinoline you want to have a strong elastic waist to ensure a snug fit to keep the under skirt in place. If the crinoline is net then look for an inner sheer lining for comfort. Tulle or net feels scratchy against the skin. Check the edges of the net. If it has a cut, or unfinished edge if will have a fluffier look.  If the net ruffles have a finished or sewn ribbon edge then it will make a gentler ruffled shape. Check the way the crinoline fits coming down from the waist. There should be a smooth, fitted section before it poufs out with the ruffles.  The shorter this span is, the more your skirt will pouf out.

Your circle skirt will look better with a crinoline underneath helping to give you a 50's hourglass shape.   It will put more fullness in your 'twirl' when you're dancing plus you'll get a glimpse of netting as you turn.  It's a fun way to jazz up your outfit and give your skirt more bounce.

Crinolines - Put Some Bounce Into Your Circle Skirt

50's style crinolines and circle skirts at Hey Viv! http://heyviv.com/shop/category.asp?catid=82

Vivian Vassar (aka Hey Viv!) has been wearing and selling vintage clothing for over 25 years. She is the owner of Hey Viv ! an online vintage clothing store that specializes in 50's style retro and vintage clothing. http://www.HeyViv.com

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